How to Adjust your Motorcycle Clickers and Revalve The Gobblers!

RE-VALVE YOUR FORKS WITH GOBBLERS.

QUICK START VERSION:

First step and it is important.

WRITE DOWN WHERE YOUR CLICKERS ARE SET BEFORE YOU START!!!

Many are afraid to go too far with their clickers and if not documented they also do not know where they started.  Hello?

Please GO TOO FAR with your clickers! You can always put them back and you will learn so much.

Don’t go full pace when testing until you are getting close to fast, safe, confidence inspiring settings.

XPLOR & Open Chamber Red Wave Gobblers.

Compression adjusters both Re-Valve and low speed are on the bottom of the forks.

Re-Valve 10mm hex tool.

Low speed 3mm hex tool.

Start with these settings:

Low Speed 3mm hex - 2.75 turns “out” from soft close clockwise.

Re-Valve 10mm - 1.5 turns “in” from all “out”.  (Warning do not fully close Re-Valve adjuster with force.)

Reb Top of forks 15 clicks “out”.

Ride.

You want more bottoming resistance turn 10mm Re-Valve adjuster 1/4 turn clockwise and ride.

You want more plush turn your 10mm Re-valve adjuster counterclockwise 1/4 turn and ride.

You have about 4 full turns available and many feel change with 1/16 turn on the Re-Valve adjuster.

Take notes on best settings for this riding area. "You are the Tuner”.

Closed Chamber KYB SSS - Showa 49mm - WP 24+ Xact - WP Aer All - Kove 49mm

Compression low speed and Re-Valve adjusters are both on your red fork cap.

Low speed clicker center of red fork cap.

Start with these settings:

Low speed adjuster 12 clicks out.

Re-Valve adjuster 4mm hex set at 3 turns out.

Ride.

You want more bottoming resistance turn Re-Valve adjuster 1/2turn clockwise and ride.

You want more plush turn your Re-valve adjuster counterclockwise 1/2 turn and ride.

You have about 4 full turns available and many feel change with 1/4 turn on the Re-Valve adjuster.

LONG LEARNING VERSION:

HOW TO ADJUST YOUR MOTORCYCLE CLICKERS AND HOW THEY WORK

COMPRESSION:

Low speed adjusters are bleed adjusters. If your motorcycle has adjusters, 99% are bleed adjusters. It is a fine tune adjuster. It is simply a 2mm to 3mm hole that allows oil to flow freely past the restriction of damping by sneaking past your piston and shims. When you adjust the low speed adjuster clockwise you are literally threading a needle into the 3mm hole to restrict this free flow. This forces the fluid through the shims stiffening up your damping. Close the adjuster and the fluid has to bend your shims away from your piston to flow, instead of easily squirting through a bleed hole.

This is bleed adjustment.

Because the low speed bleed hole is 2mm to 3mm only so much fluid can flow. So hitting small bumps with the ability to bleed a little bit of fluid on initial impact can allow the fork to move a bit with less resistance making the bike more plush.

If you hit sharp edge really fast and hard that bleed hole cannot flow enough oil and you almost immediately will have full damping through your shims / valving.

What happens when you turn your compression bleed adjuster in clockwise too much? Closing off the bleed circuit.

On lighter bikes the forks will become harsh and you will feel the smaller bumps and rocks in your hands.

If you’re doing 65mph and flying through rough terrain you will feel less harshness because the bumps are so fast and hard the shims are bent away from the piston aggressively and flow immediately from high speed impacts, so you push through the harshness.

Another scenario, rocky hillclimb. Too tight compression damping when hitting a rock on a hillclimb will bounce the front end into the air especially considering the front is light from acceleration and angled with the weight on the rear. Reduce the low speed compression damping counterclockwise and open your Re-Valve damping and your front end will stick to the ground so you can accelerate up a rough rocky hillclimb.

What happens when you open or turn your low speed compression adjuster counterclockwise too much?

More fluid is allowed to move freely.

This can make the forks harsh simply because they will get too busy bouncing up and down in small amounts rapidly. It lacks control.

Plus lets say your going through a big smooth G-out. You’re on the gas and for a second the suspension is compressing. This gives your open bleed lots of time to flow fluid and the suspension will simply keep compressing and go deep into the stroke. One second is a slow speed compression event. Many jump ramps are slow speed compression events. So your suspension may go too deep into the stroke off a jump. Not ideal. The landing is getting into medium to high speed territory.

Going through a pot hole, whoops or hitting a sharp edged rock are high speed compression events.

REBOUND:

Rebound slows the fork down when extending. You want the fork to extend and get back to the ground for traction but you do not want the bike to come off the  ground after a jump landing. Find that happy medium.

Our valving design helps the fork get back to the ground quickly but with a bit more high speed rebound damping. This keeps you on the ground after a landing and helps hold he front end down while cornering for added traction and stability.

What happens when you have too much rebound or have the clicker turned in too tight clockwise?

When the fork and spring are fully extended they are at the softest point allowing the fork to compress easily and softly into the stroke when hitting a bump.

Just push on a set of forks when they are off the bike and they move easily. Try pushing them deep into the stroke. Good luck!

Example: Take a series of bumps. You hit the first bump and all is good but then the fork does not have time to extend before hitting the second bump.

So you’re not at the plushest extended part of the stroke and the second bump hit is harder because of it.

It simply takes more energy to get the fork to move and that is felt in your hands.

Hit the third bump and the forks are further compressed because the rebound is holding the suspension down and this will make the bumps feel sharp and harsh and jarring.

It will not get any better until you lighten up the rebound and allow the fork to move back into the softness when extending in between the bumps.

This is called packing. Your packing the forks lower and lower and they get stiffer and stiffer.

I say forks but the rear shock will do the same.

What happens when you do not have enough rebound as the clickers are out counterclockwise too far?

Let’s start with cornering. You come to the corner on the brakes and then accelerate out of the corner.

When you transition between braking and accelerating the front end will rise and the rear will squat. If you do not have enough rebound to hold the front end down the front will lift, get light and there goes your steering accuracy. The bike will try to steer away from your intended direction while losing traction at the same time.

Hold that front end down a bit with rebound and you are much more likely to rail that corner like a pro.

Similar to too little compression, too little rebound can get very busy and chattery losing traction and creating harshness from moving too rapidly up and down.

When landing off a jump your front end will tend to lift off the ground and if the tires are not on the ground you have zero traction, reduced acceleration in the rear shock too.

In extreme conditions your forks when lifting weight off the front end  will extend so fast it will clank or knock. This is called topping out.

Sometimes this is simply a loose steering bearing but topping does happen with too little rebound. Clunk.

Gobbler Re-Valve Adjustment:

The Gobblers are an additional adjuster that is very different than any forks made today.

The Re-Valve adjuster is the magic, that will change your forks from too plush to too firm and the beauty in between in just a few seconds. “You are the Tuner”

Don’t quit testing until you know the range that is available to you ! ! ! Most simply do not know how good this suspension can be because it is very good even when not clicked optimally.